Thursday 30 January 2014

31st January - Railay (Thailand)


Friday 31st January



Railay, on the Thai mainland is simply glorious.  It all looks very familiar – I am sure I have seen this fabulous landscape/seascape many times in movies, and holiday destination programs. 



There is a price to pay for this beauty/viewty…popularity… The area is simply heaving with tourists, most of the Russian.   The beach is lined with longtail boats, ready to zoom people noisily hither and yon.  There are canoes being paddled (sometimes alarmingly by people who don’t seem to be able to co-ordinate the paddles and who possibly can’t swim…) People are climbing the vertiginous cliffs, others are shrieking, bat-like, in the once silent and majestic caves.  There are resorts, shops, cafés, bars, peoplepeoplePEOPLE everywhere.



It is all very fascinating, to sit at a beachfront table and watch.  So many different sizes and shapes, mostly wearing…bikinis.  (Some inadvisedly.)  Russian couples seem to go in for matching outfits – fluorescent green or orange, speedos for him, tiny bikini for her.  And LOTS of bright pink sunburn…



The Chow Lair* (Sea Gypsies) have been gently but definitely removed from their own islands.  Entrepreneurs (local) have bought up the land on the most beautiful beaches, leaving them with nowhere much to go.  Their culture is slowly disappearing.  Such is modern life, modern tourism…the price to pay.



* I read in Lonely Planet that during the 2004 tsunami virtually no Chow Lair were killed, as folk tales handed down from generation to generation alerted them to the dangers of the quickly receding tide, and they were able to escape to higher ground.

 


Wednesday 29 January 2014

26th - 30th January - Hole in the Wall (Langkawi) - Ko Muk - Emerald Cave - Railay (Thailand)


Sunday 26th January


Hamish and Angus have tickets to Langkawi (April 2014...) WEEHEE!
Our Australia Day was very beautiful… Five of us Tasmanians, on 2XS in and around the 99 islands of Langkawi.

We spent a bit of time in Kuah.  Pete filled the boat with diesel; Bron and I went to the post office – about $3 for me to send 6 birthday cards, I do hope they get to their destination; Jabba and James went to the servo where they bought petrol for the dinghy and Jabba also managed to score a piece of bright green sponge cake.  (Don’t ask…a nice lady came out and on-sold this delicious item – he could not resist.)




Off and away around the coast, to the Hole in the Wall, a most beautiful destination on the northern corner.  We anchored, swam, admired the view, scoped out the little floating restaurants along the way.  Our dinner was slightly strange but…fun!

Pete and I took the dinghy up the channel, past an enormous jetty full of tourist boats – we thought we were alone in the wilderness but no – and along to a pier under construction, full of naughty monkeys.  We walked through the Bat Cave, with many signs saying SILENCE.  The other families, off the aforementioned tourist boats, obviously did not know what SILENCE means so I think the bats have a less than peaceful life.

Today I think we are leaving Malaysia, back into Thai waters.  Maybe Koh Muk?  And I have no idea when next I will get internet connection…it is always a challenge.


James, Bron, Jabba
Friday 31st January

We are now in the Most Beautiful Place in the World.  Or…one of hem.  We re anchored in a bay in Railay, mainland Thailand, and it is SO beautiful we can hardly breathe.

Along the way we have stopped at Koh Bulon Leh, which was very lovely indeed but…oh deary me SO rock & roll none of us slept until about 4am when it calmed down just a bit.  We did get off the boat and onto the island, which was very quaint and cute, with lots of adorable little cabins to stay in, woven from basket  and bamboo, up and down from one side of the island to the other.  We had a delicious dinner – oh my word, Thai food is glorious… And then a very precarious trip back to 2XS via dinghy, in two trips.  We all arrived totally drenched and slightly frightened by the waves, the wind, the entire ferocity of the sea. Was the mooring going to hold?  Well yes it did…thank goodness…

Up sticks and off to… Koh Muk!  It was a most beautiful island.  Yet again!  We had a delicious fabulous dinner at a little restaurant on a small clifftop – yes Thai food is wonderful… My new favourite food is massaman curry; it used to be (oh so last year) Tom Yum Soup.




In the morning we had a quick catch up with Karsten and Mercedes, from Forty-Two, our long-term (German) friends since Lizard Island (Northern Qld.)  They are on their way back to Langkawi…




Before we left Koh Muk some of us (Jabba, James, Marguerite) had a wonderful adventure - the Emerald Cave!  We stopped 2XS just near the moorings surrounding the cave and the three of us swam in…through a long dark tunnel, this way and that. Mercedes had told us we had to have flotation, and torches – so glad we had this advice!   I was a long way to swim… I swam on Bronwen’s pink noodle, James and Jabba used life jackets.  Two of us had had torches so we swam along together, feeling very adventurous through the dark dark water…  and then out into the sunlight, a fabulous sunlit jungle beach!  WOW!  There were a few people there and within minutes…more and more…ferryloads of tourists - chanting, counting, singing, yahooing…




Oh the serenity, sighed James…




It was just beautiful…but on my way swimming back to the boat – OUCHYOUCH!!  I felt as if I had swum into a barbed wire fence…jellyfish… This was not good… I limped back onto the boat, complaining bitterly. But…a nice cold shower, a big dose of Telfast, some bite ointment…no more pain, no more need to complain.




By sunset we were herein Railay/Krabbi…wherever we are which is SO beautiful…




Breathtaking!!









Saturday 25 January 2014

24th January - I deleted this just now...sigh sigh...


Friday 24th January

Pete and I are having two days of relative inactivity.  To our great surprise, the lack of having to be up and GOGOGOing means that we have been sleepsleepsleeping… At 10am and Pete was still in Sleepyboboland; I only woke up at 9.15. 

No we didn’t have a particularly late night.   We spent the day reasonably busy but not needing to go very far from 2XS.  Our new berth, D3 is VERY close to the big pavilion containing the ablutions block.  Wonderful!  I no longer have to get on a bike and rush down pontoons and along the path to get to the toilet.  I can just stroll up the gangplank and a few steps further, and there it is.  Last time, on A19, we were as far as possible from any of the facilities.  It was all very nice and private but…inconvenient.

I did some washing and cleaning, at a leisurely pace, and went down to the beach to do internet things.  The rest of the afternoon I sat in a shady position on the deck, listening to podcasts (the ABC Conversation/ interview with Kate McClymont was particularly interesting) and knitted, while watching people get on and off the ferries.   Then I dealt with my horrid fingernails and made them a bit more presentable.   A hard day’s night



Pete in the meantime sat motionless at the table, struggling with our recalcitrant printers (yes we have two…sometimes neither of them will obey their job description) and doing bookwork.  He is set to do much the same today.   My job is to keep up the fluids; he forgets to drink water and this is not a good thing, in such hot weather. 



At 6.30 we went down to the beach bar for happy hour cocktails with our friends.  We were very pleased and surprised to find we still have friends here – we thought they had all scattered, but no.  Solace, Zoa, Delphian, Out of the Blue II are all back here, after adventures around the island.  Most of us went for dinner in the Hard Dock Café and returned to our boats/beds around 11.30, to sleep sleep SLEEP.

Paul and Gina (SV Solace) are here for a while longer.  They are waiting for a parcel to arrive for the USA.  It has cleared Malaysian customs and will be with them…one day.  They are about to head off across the Indian Ocean, to go up the coast of Africa, so they need the boat to be completely seaworthy.  I forget what they said was in the package but…it is crucial to their wellbeing.)



And all of our other friends are off toThailand this morning.    We were very happy to see Phil and Cheryl, for Adagio, arriving late in the afternoon.  Phil had been in Danga Bay, in the rain, surrounded by mosquitoes and midgies, for many weeks while Cheryl did the Malaysian Rally on 2XS, Kularoo and Alleycat.   She flew back to join him and they have now, finally, together, arrived at the end point of the rally.  I thought I would spend today chatting with Cheryl in the pool – how lovely would that have been! – but no; they too are off and away this morning, in a convoy with the others.

I trotted along the dock to say goodbye to them all this morning.



Chris was down in the engine hold of Out of the Blue II with John (SV Delphian), fixing a last minute problem.

Lyn, Cecilie
Phil and Cheryl were very contentedly ready to go.



I had a cup of coffee on SV Zoe with Janice.  So lovely, light and comfortable.  Monohulls are not always so pleasant inside…






26th January - Australia Day in Malaysia - Langkawi - cable car - Telaga - Galeria Perdana - Rebak Island


Sunday 26th January

Australia Day!

And we are not in Australia…

But the five of us – James, Bron, Pete, me and now also Jabba – will undertake to behave in as Australian a manner as possible as we leave Rebak marina, fill up with fuel in Kuah, make our way through the efficient and courteous Customs, Immi, Harbour Master and set off for new adventures on our way back to Phuket.

We had a lovely day yesterday.  Quite a bit of touristy stuff.




Firstly – the cable car, at last!  And yes it was very splendid.



We had to wait in a queue for ages.




Pete got separated from the rest of us and found himself, in the queue-maze, with eight VERY tough young chaps between him and us.  Just ask them to let you through, said James.  They look friendly!   




 (As it turned out their appearance was deceptive.  One of the gang had to ride in our little cablecar, and he tried very hard to be polite and speak English, of which he did not know more than two words.  When I found the whole seven of them at the lookout, I took their cameras as they posed against the viewty 



and took photos for them – they were wreathed in smiles, no longer fearsome.)

A slither of our new friend, going UP
The cablecar trip was fabulous.  It is, apparently, the steepest ascent of its kind in the world.  All very solid and safe, Austrian designed, built and maintained.  We oohed and aahed and admired it all very much.



Next, after a quick look at the resident tiger, we had a delicious lunch at Telaga Harbour, 

Fruit juice served in cute bottles
then back into our Mr Din car – perfectly OK except it had no first gear, and very little grunt.  Across the island to the galleria Perdana, which we thought James, Bron and Jabba would adore.  They probably didn’t but…Pete and I loved it all over again and I took many many photos which will be inserted, at random, in this blog over the days to come.



A quick trip to PL Soon Huat, our favourite Langkawi “supermarket” to stock up on coffee, cheese, blackcurrant juice (no scurvy on 2S) etc etc and then – back to Rebak on the 6pm ferry!

We had a quick swim, a quick cocktail at the beach bar, then a beautiful relaxing dinner in the resort.

Jenga Jabba
On the way back – a fierce game of Jenga, a bit of music from the cheery Philippino “band” then – bed at midnight…

Jenga Pete