Tuesday, 9 June 2015

9th - 10th June - Pulau Penumu - Star Lagoon - Pulau Pef - beauty of Raja Ampat

Tuesday 9th June 2015

0 degrees 34.692S
130 degrees 16.991E
15 meres depth, surrounded by reef
Pulau Penumu
Fam Islands
Raja Ampat

Yesterday we left our cheery mooring at Raja Ampat Dive Lodge and made our way to the Fam Island group, recommended by Made and Wayan.

Pete Made John
We are anchored in 15 metres of water, surrounded by coral reef.

In the middle of the night – around 2am to be precise – the depth alarm went off WHEE OOOO WHEEE OOO.  Very very alarming!  I was alarmed indeed but very happy to be woken from a particularly ghastly dream about…torture, my least favourite dream scenario.  The boat had moved a bit and was now just over the reef at a rather uncomfortable depth.  Or shallowness… We sat up for a while.  Pete discussed various scenarios and I…yawned and nodded, not very helpfully, occasionally making a soothing humming sound.  In the end all was well, no problems, so we went off back to Snoozyland.  This morning John told me that he hadn’t come out to join us – he had thought we were up, at 2am, making bread… I thought this was too funny – he must think we are VERY keen bakers, or very keen bread-eaters!

Our second dive with Wayan and Made was great.  No current so no huge adrenalin rush but it was all very lovely.  We saw turtles, a few reef sharks, some nudibranchs, some big boofy somethingfish majestically swimming along overhead.  Made found a wobegong shark for us, lying dopily under a rock.  It was quite big and very floppy… He gave it a bit of a poke with his pointer stick and it barely flipped a fin.  I got down into the deeper water mores successfully.  The day before I didn’t have enough weight on my belt – nobody ever believes me when I say I need A LOT.  But Made and Wayan had seen me, the day before, bobbing back up to the surface like  cork, so they load me up and I sank successfully and found it all much less stressful.

Today I have been swimming around our encircling reef; John has been protecting his sunburnt body from the sun and the water; Pete has been under the boat scrubbing at a new lot of vigorous life forms which are colonizing the hulls.  I got in again and helped with the scrubbing; very satisfying.

John and I had a little trip in to shore in the dingy.  I saw a nondescript looking black bird

and went clickety click with my speedy camera just as it took flight and revealed itself not to be nondescript at all!

We crossed over to the other side of the island where there was a glorious white coral beach

unfortunately covered with…crapola

featuring many many ubiquitous blue thongs.

In the afternoon all three of us wended our way through the shallow coral maze to the Star Lagoon, a place of extraordinary beauty and splendour. I very cleverly did NOT take my camera… We walked up to the lookout (puff puff pant) and admired it all most extravagantly.

Fortunately John had his camera, small and cheap but wonderful, and he took gorgeous photos.

Thank you!

The mast of 2XS just visible behind us
Wednesday 10th June

00 degrees 26.576S
130 degrees 638E
Pulau Pef mooring

So we are back in sight of the eagle’s nest, mooring at the back of Pef Island in a peaceful passage. It is drizzling and birds are singing – lovely!

When John got on board he had not yet unpacked his bags when he unfurled a nifty new fishing line… He is an indefatigable hunger gatherer!  Until now there has been no sign of a fish at the end of this line but this morning, on our way from Penumu to Pef – a big mackerel!  Beautiful and delicious!

The resort is closed for renovation and stocktake but…it is beautiful, and most impressive!!!  (And they are very kindly letting me use the internet…)

Approaching the resort form the landing, through the mangroves

1 comment:

  1. Lovely photo of you...........and the not so ordinary bird! xx