Saturday 1 February 2014

1st and 2nd February - Krabi - Railay - Patong Beach (Phuket) - Muy Thai


Saturday 1st February





Yesterday morning was a Krabi day.  We climbed onto a longtail at 8.45 and chugchugged our way along the spectacular coast, up the Krabi River, and into town.  Krabi is a very tourist-oriented town, full of shops and cafés, but it isn’t really very beautiful.  The landscape is dominated by mangroves, with some spectacular rock formations in the background.  Nothing like glorious Railay…

But…there are nice aspects.  Life-size statues of elephants.




Lotus flowers blooming in the ditches



Harbour Master, Customs, Immigration – a long series of forms to fill in, from one end of town to the other.  We were going to walk but…it is very hot and after many signs telling us Immigration was 500  metes up the street, they suddenly changed their minds and said, 4.5 kilometres up the street instead…

So we took a taxi.  They were very courteous in all of the offices – such a marked contrast to Mr VERY Rude at Oe Chalong… In Immigration Jabba and I got out to stretch our legs while Pete filled in yet more innumerable forms.  I said, Let’s go inside, there might be a water cooler.  (As if!)  But…YES!  There was a water cooler!  With real glasses, and icy water.  And our Immi man very kindly passed over a tin of delicious little hazelnut biscuits.  I took some out to James and Bron – we were all very hungry; we had run out of bread on 2XS and we were very much in need of a café. 

By 12 all of our business was done and we were free to eat delicious Pad Thai and spring rolls before getting back on our boat (Number 27.)  The sturdy little engine needed fixing – it started to make alarming sounds halfway back to Railay.  Captain Yob stopped the engine and pulled out a delicate tool…and all was well!




The crowds are thick on the beaches of Railay again.  We were so very hot we all got in for a swim within microseconds of our return to 2XS.   Jabba, James and Bron scrubbed the starboard hull – it was totally slimy and full of barnacles.  (Pete had already tackled the port side, all by himself, on Koh Lipe.)




It is nearly time for our small tribe to disband…Jabba will go back to his work at the Australian Embassy in Hanoi, where he works as their Climate Change specialist.  James and Bron will fly back to real life in Tasmania.  And Pete and I…well there are quite a few more beautiful little islands to explore…

We left early this morning and had an easy cruise back to Phuket.  We are now anchored off busy BUSY Patong Beach.




Our rallyfriends Jacqui and Ken, SV Tintin are here.  They are leaving very soon, to haul out the boat in Malaysia.  They are going home  to Brisbane, via the UK, for a year – people to see, family to be with, dogs to be doted upon. They have had a lovely time in amongst the glorious Thai islands but…at Koh Phi Phi Don, the boat was burgled.  They lost $5000 worth of stuff.  $5000 is bad but…the things they lost were mainly iDevices.  Ipads, iPods, iPhones, Mac computers, cameras… SO devastating…  I would be, as they say, totes devo.  They seemed remarkably calm, but I suppose there is only a certain amount of time in which one can gnash one’s teeth. 





Sunday 2nd February

Last night was…memorable.  James said, a bit sadly, that it was a pity he had come to Thailand without seeing a Muy Thai fight.  So maybe we would all like to go to one, at Patong Beach??  Well yes OF COURSE.  We had dinner in a small restaurant along the esplanade and set of in a little bus at 7.45, to go to the nearby stadium.  The fights didn’t begin till 9.00… We had narrow wooden benches to sit on.  I showed the whites of my eyes at this; I would have been a sobbing mess by the time the fighting even began had I sat on one of these torture devices.  (poor little princess…)  Fortunately there was a bar, with reasonably comfortable stools, with a great view of the ring, so I sat there, drinking my water and reading the local paper they had provided. 


No photos of kickboxing...but here is our longtail, from my vantage point...
So what was it like??  Well, VERY noisy, for starters, with ghastly music playing at fever pitch.  Some sort of wind instruments, with a thin bagpipe-y effect and no tune or rhythm.   LOUD.  There were seen fights in all, with five rounds each fight.  Mostly professional Thai fighters, starting at 12 years old… Three Australians, one enormous Russian*.   It is all very high energy, with lots of skill involved, but I (predictably) spent a lot of time wincing as they kicked and punched and thwacked away at each other.   (The Australian fighters did really well and were thrilled to bits.  Opponents – totes devo…)


Children fighting - not quite Hunger Games
I was sitting just behind a popcorn seller.  He worked away very diligently and keg looking at me hopefully.  So I bought a big tub of his pop cron, 50 bath** and took it to The Tribe on the benches.


The Tribe on the benches - taken with my underwater camera so not all that good but never mind...

It was midnight by the time our driver dropped us back at the beach.  Time for bed??  Well no…it was our tribe’s last night together, with all of the opportunities afforded by Patong Beach.  Nightclub!  Drink!  Make merry! 

The Tiger Bar, in Walking Street (by now I think I have worked out that Walking Streets are…car-free zones…) is probably one of the biggest bars in the world.  In fact the whole Walking Street is lined with enormous bars.  Ladyboys pose prettily, cruising for trade, music plays, it is one gigantic non-stop party.

Except when there is an election… We arrived in Walking Street just after midnight on 2nd Feb.  And…all of the bars were closed.  Ladyboys still posing prettily, a confused crowd wandered aimlessly but…everything was closed down.  No alcohol at all to be served from midnight on Election Day…

So…back to our own bar on 2XS.  Ladyboy-free but cosy and welcoming.  Bron and I drank large amounts of water and tottered off to bed just before 3am.  Our men…well it was nearly 5am when they finally tore themselves away from their cheery conversation…It is now nearly 9am and I am up, obviously, drinking delicious cups of tea and looking at the lovely sparkling sea, smooth as glass.  Everyone else is in Sleepyboboland.. Good thing James and Bron’s plane doesn’t leave until 9pm.



* The big fat pale Russian launched himself into the fight with a barrage of punches, hoping to beat his opponent into speedy submission.  Failing that he tried to crushing him, like a python, against the ropes.  But the Thai fighter (heavyweight class but not as gigantic) was more than a match for him and he very soon ran out of puff.  And threw in the towel, literally!   

** Just possibly he meant pop corn, 50 baht…Oh dear, the picky pedant, ever vigilant…





























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