Sunday, 7 September 2014

8th September - Puerto Princesa - Palawan - delights and dangers


Monday 8th September


Puerta Princesa, thus far, is just lovely.


Little houses, woven like baskets, line the streets.



The Abanico Yacht Club is simple, welcoming, cosy, and…woven like a basket.



We negotiated a ride into town in Roland’s tricycle, and made our way to – a fairly big shopping mall.  This was NOT what we expected!  Pete, with much agonising, bought some new clothes.  Three t-shirts, one shirt, one pair of shorts.  MUCH anguish and deliberation…He hates buying clothes but…it had to happen!  His current clothes are threadbare and grubby in spite of mending and washing, done by me…well, I do my best, me and my big black washing bucket…and my dear little sewing machine.  But everything does wear out, eventually.  Even our teatowels are looking slightly ghastly, with burn marks and rips and the odd ineradicable stain.



Roland’s tricycle is guarded by his teenage brother and a 
pack of children climbing all over it
I didn’t buy clothes – nothing really appealed, in this mall – but I did get one month’s worth of top-up for the internet.

The Team (about six people were involved, one way and another, rushing back and forth into the back office, calling out to each other across the crowded shop,) in Electronico let out a whoop of delight when they finally got it all set up. It took nearly an hour… I am so glad it was not me, on my own phone, desperately trying to get the correct number to answer, the right connection to connect.



What we were definitely not expecting to find, in Puerto Princesa, was a new coffeepot… But there it was, waiting for us, our new duck-egg blue pot! It was astonishingly cheap…just over $7, and it isn’t very solid, but we hope it will make us our two morning cups of coffee until we can come home and find an Italian one. 




From left to right:

(1)      Our original genuine Italian pot, given to Pete and Clare by Robert Aureli many years ago.  Pete has MacGuyvered it to within an inch of its life but it has finally given up entirely and will not allow any water through from the bottom to the top.  
(2)      A one-cup pot which I bought in a proper coffee shop a few years ago- it does still work although the rubber seal is buggered, but it only makes one small cup, and squirts all over the stove

(3)      A replacement pot which John Miedecke kindly brought us last year.  It too has stopped working and just makes a ghastly mess all over the kitchen surfaces.

(4)      The New Pot!




On the second floor of the mall I found…a beauty salon!  My hair has grown like a weed, totally out of control, so I very bravely went in to see if I could get it cut.  Yes certainly come in, mam… My lovely young coiffeur, Kelvin Jay,  looked at a photo on my iPhone of a cut which hadn’t made me cry (Kirsty, Tease, Hobart,) and said, Oh yes, I know!  I told him that if he cut it too short I would weep and he was, understandably, quite alarmed.  All of the hairdressers wear masks in the salon.  I asked why and he said it was to protect their lungs from the ambient hairclippings – very sensible!  Kelvin Jay took nearly an hour, carefully and minutely snipping.  It was all very strange - he blow dried my hair meticulously (it  was already dry…) with an assistant holding various hanks of hair out of the way as he worked.  I was highly amused; I thought he was going to be too scared to cut anything at all.  But eventually he did cut just a bit, and he was mightily pleased with the result.  And this very pleasant experience (no sobbing!) all cost me…180 pesos ($4.87.)



This morning Pete pumped up the dinghy (yes, the poor dead one,) and two keen young chaps from the yacht club came to take it away.  John Leader is going to see what he can do to revive it.  No we are not going to use it for 2XS- we are delighted with the new tinny, replete with its stabilising fenders – but maybe the old dinghy can go in peace and dignity to a new home.



So far we are totally delighted with Palawan and we think the Philippines will be a delightful experience altogether.  It is extremely beautiful, lush and green, and the people are cheery and helpful.  (And everything is astonishingly cheap.)

And yet…



Look at this beautiful yacht (an Amel ketch, very comfortable and luxurious.)  It belongs to Stefan Viktor Okonek, 71, and his female companion, Herike Diesen, 55, who were forcibly taken from their yacht at Rio Tubbataha, an hour’s ride from Puerto Princesa in Palawan.  (I looked this up on Google; stories about this abduction are a bit confused/confusing.)  This happened in April 2014 and they are still holed up in a mountain hideaway, being “looked after” by terrorists.  We asked John Leader about the dangers in these waters and he said that yachties are perfectly safe so long as they do not stay more than two nights in the one anchorage.  A bit like crocodiles, I said – they suss you out over two days and then eat you on the third.  Well yes…

We are – so they say – OK here in Puerto Princesa.  It is all very mellow and benign.  The ketch is being looked after by Cissy and John, in preparation or poor Stefan and Herike’s return.  But once we leave here we have to keep on the hop.  This is just more than a bit disturbing…But we have already me several calm and contented people who have been cruising these waters for many years, and they seem very confident and secure.  I am sure all will be well!  But I do feel for Herike and Stefan…

local boys fishing in their tiny outrigger canoe


1 comment:

  1. Yikes - keep that boat moving and stay safe! xx

    ReplyDelete