Friday 3 July 2015

4th July - Sorong - Pulau Doom - Papua

Saturday 4th July 2015

0 degrees 52.995S
131 degrees 14.168E
Pulau Doom
Sorong, Papua
10m


Cheery Doom Girl
We arrived in Sorong and intended to get out of there as swiftly as possible.  Sorong isn’t a bad town, but the anchorage in the harbour isn’t very pleasant.  Dirty and noisy, and there is really nowhere to leave the dinghy.  All of the jetties are Private Property and the access from dinghy to shore is perilous in any case – slippery, sharp, smelly…


Our beautiful Doom anchorage, so close to Sorong!
But – oh so lucky – we saw a big yacht (SV Four Friends, NZ,) anchored near a little island in the harbour so we went closer to ask them how things were.  And things are great!  This is Pulau Doom.  Doom is absolutely the wrong word for this delightful little island!


Gorgeous Doom Girls
We are peacefully anchored in 10 metres of clean-ish water, and the village nearby is full of colourful houses, with very friendly people.



There seem to be thousands of children, all beaming.


Pete with Deddy, Carlos, Orlando and Echo
And there is a nice man called John, who will look after the dinghy for not very much per day.


John, giving Pete a stern warning re BadBoys
And getting to town – easypeasy!  If you don’t mind a small narrow rock & roll boat jam-packed with people…But MUCH nicer than going in to shore in the dinghy to find Private Propery and slippery slimy sharp rocks.



We had a quick stop at the Harbour Master office and then off to Immigration.  It all seemed to be taking forever…so we rang Eflin, our contact from Stephy and Martin (Raja Ampat Dive Resort.) 



Eflin acts as an agent and sponsor, for $50 per person.  And well worth it...

Everything stops for lunch, in the Immigration office, so we went off on our other quest– the fuel barge office, leaving kindly Eflin to wait for the office people to return.  We had the address – 8A Jalan Gunung Gamalama.  The problem is…there are no town maps and nobody knows where anything is.  So – not such an easy quest!  Eflin had suggested we go in a bemo as far as the Mona Lisa Hotel, where there MIGHT be some Gunung streets.  We were very hot and slightly bothered by the time our bemo driver dropped us off…right near the Mamberamo Hotel…and we knew that this hotel has a very nice bar.  Why not go in there and ask for directions??


BLISS!!
Our kindly barman didn’t know where our street was, but he suggested walking up – yes – to the Mona Lisa Hotel, where there might be some Gunung streets.  Not sure why they are called Gunung – gunung means mountain and this is the flattest part of Sorong…Never mind!  We asked all and sundry along the way, because people here are so very friendly, and they all want to chat and help.  They would wave their arms in this direction, and that, but…nobody really knew where Jalan Gunung Gamalama was.


Sorong is very colourful!
Along the way we found a very grand building, unlike anything else in Sorong.  Wow!  What was it?



Well…an executive club, of course!



And finally…our street!



It was not the sort of place one would expect to find a busy fuel office.  In fact it looked as if tumbleweeds would blow along at any moment.



There were, of course, cheery children wanting to be photographed.  When I first saw these girls they were sitting in the barrels in the driveway – a perfect photo opportunity, I thought.  But no of course they wanted to do The Universal Pose!



And at last 8A!  A suburban house, with no sign of fuel-ishness about it.  But we knocked and were greeted very civilly; it was the right place, indeed.  But…we needed to buy 1,000 litres and they can only sell a minimum of 3,000.



So…back along the colourful streets



to meet Eflin, at Saga Supermarket.  She had our papers so we are now free to be in Indonesia for another month. 

Back to the little ferryboats…Once more we were jammed in and off we went but…suddenly, before we had left the shore, it all went wrong and we had to get off onto an adjacent one, clambering out with not much dignity with all of our heavy shopping bags.



The second boat took off backwards between some big solid concrete pilings and then there was another bit of a bugger-up and we started smashing into the pilings side on.  BANG, CRASH, SMASH, SPLASH.  It was, I say mildly, very unpleasant.  The extraordinary thing was how calm all of the passengers were.  They were totally happy and confident, with the odd appreciative giggle as yet another large wave smashed through the plastic side curtains.  I did some deep breathing and sat very still.  I was a bit worried about our shopping going to the bottom of the sea – many cans of beans, a large cabbage, some precious Fuji apples, cheese.  Pete of course wanted to FIX things, by going onto the deck and pushing the boat away.  He started getting to his feet.  Well you can’t get to your feet in these boats, there is only about one metre of clearance, so he was having some difficulty as the boat crashed and ricocheted into the pilings.  I said very sternly, NO, PETE!!  (He paid no attention to this at all.)  I did not want him being a human buffer!  Fortunately the boatmen got us up and running, with many more merry smashes into hard concrete.  Not sure how the boat didn’t get smashed to smithereens, but maybe this happens all the time??



We were very happy to get to our beautiful little Island of Doom!  I bought some eggs at the little market, and then we got into two bicycle rickshaws and had a beautiful ride back to the dinghy, with just a little bit of a walk along the waterfront path to get us there.


We were happier than I can describe to be back on 2XS…A few cheery children came to visit and we said, Yes lovely come back tomorrow…I had just enough energy to cook stir-fried prawns and to drink a G & T while watching the beautiful sunset.



It is so nice we are spending another night at Pulau Doom.  Pete thinks he has organised another source of fuel, arriving today at 4pm.  We will see!



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