Sunday, 15 June 2014

15th June - Miri marina - Borneo yacht racing - boat cleaning - Viscount Melbourne salvage


Sunday 15th June



2XS is wedged into a small space in Berth #4 at the marina.  Youc an see, very clearly, the bright yellow stains we acquired in Terengganu… All of the boats which spent any time in the river there have equally bright stains and we have all had a jolly good go at scrubbing them off.

Last night was the rally cocktail party, at the marina.  BYO drinks, BYO food.  First we had a meeting which went on FAR too long (well about half an hour…but it was hot…)  Today was the beginning of a racing regatta and we had a lengthy presentation of all of the rules.  Many flags would be raised/lowered at certain times to let the contestants know when to start and where to go…We have just talked to one of our neighbours who said that the race was total chaos.  No flags were raised or lowered, nobody knew where the buoys were or what to do with them.  And the wind died down so that most of the boats couldn’t get over the finish line.  But…everyone had fun and we all got nifty new t-shirts.  (Prakash is wearing one in the photo below.)

Prakash, from Port Disxon, with Captain Finn, the redoubtable manager of Miri Marina
Today we were going to hire the car from Thorny Rose (who is now no longer Thorny Rose but our delightful and fascinating new friend, Roze Berekoven, formidable amateur marine archeologist).  Our aim was to go to Brunei, just for the day, with Rob (SV Jolie Brise.)  As you do… But the car isn’t insured for Brunei, so we have adjourned this adventure sine die.

Instead we have been cleaning.  Scrubbing, vacuuming, generally trying to restore a bit of order and cleanliness to the decks.  Pete managed to remove all of the yellow stains from the starboard side, where he could reach from the dock.  And…it was hot HOT work.  I got to the stage where I couldn’t bear to go inside the cabin; Pete was left with the task of wielding the wet-dry machine inside while I filled the tanks with filtered water.  Outside!!

SO clean!
We haven’t see very much of Miri but we are amazed at the development, and the wealth!  All of those oil rigs in the South China Sea…

On the way from Kuching to Miri
Around the marina area there is a huge development beginning.  We have ridden our bikes along a pristine four-lane highway, leading into the city.  Perfect for bike riding because there are NO cars… We are fascinated by the large complex of apartments?  Town houses??

A tricky panorama shot but...this is what the Arcadia development is like!   Block after block!
There are hundreds of them, all brand new, all empty.  WTF???  Today we found out they are shops.  Hundreds of them, presumably with accommodation above.  And all likely to be rented out very profitably in the next few months.  Extraordinary!  The houses being built along the marina laneway are also extremely substantial, with high ceilings, gazebos, maybe 60-80 squares.


At midday we took a break and strolled along to the nearby café with Rob.  The food is delicious and very cheap; there is shade and there are fans on the outdoor area; Pete can get Tiger Beer.  What’s not to like??  We were peacefully sipping our iced lemon tea/Tiger beer when suddenly there was Roze in our midst, dynamic and formidable, as Pete had described her.  



We loved Roze!  She and her husband Hans are sheep farmers from the Snowy Mountains, but they have been living here in Miri for a year or so.  They have a big black boat in the marina (Southern Sun), built in Launceston, but they live in a small apartment in the big high-rise building in the above photo, behind the houses.

What is keeping them here is this:



Please look at their website, www.MaritimeMysteries.org, and like them on Facebook, if you can.  They are salvaging the wreck of the Viscount Mebourne, which sank on a reef ninety miles from Miri in 1842.  Roze is totally passionate about this; she kept us enthralled with the amazing story, of the shipwreck, and also of her valiant attempt to salvage as much as possible.  Everything will go into a museum, here in Miri, yet to be built in a new municipal centre in Arcadia.

From the Singapore Times
We were so appreciative of her story that she said, Get in my car!  We spent about an hour in her little apartment, gazing at the artifacts she has so lovingly curated.



They ate and drank well, on these cargo ships!  She has found many bottles of preserves – blueberries, grapes, still recognisable, but tasting of mud and salt.  There is also a sizeable wine cellar of priceless Bordeaux wine…(No not drinkable, but certainly collectable!)


Aren’t people amazing??  To do all of this Roze has had to get two open water diving certificates.  She and Hans have had to battle with bureaucracy to get salvage rights; they have been negotiating to build the museum.  Not to mention the thousands of hours researching and learning how to curate the objects they have found 40 metres down.

We are about to go to the rally dinner, at the Park View Everly Hotel.  Who knows what extraordinary stories we will hear…

Oh and no we are not yacht race pikers... Tomorrow we are joining the race from Miri to Labuan, in Sabah, which will go day and night...Many advantages eg - a naval escort, to deter pirates!!

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