Monday, 2 September 2013

2nd September - Labuan Bajo - Rinca national park - Komodo dragons


Monday 2nd September

I still like a nice scenic wreck...



Here is a blogbit I wrote, I think, a few days ago, when we were anchored at Komodo Island.  My internet rupiyah ran out…

We are anchored near a lovely beach – not pink, like the gorgeous one on Padar Island, but white and pretty nonetheless.  The sea is green and a bit opaque, not turquoise and sparklingly clear but…oh my goodness…the coral, the fish…just WONDERFUL!!  I have been in the water almost constantly, and in fact have been so salty that sometimes I would wake in the middle of the night thinking, Is this really my hair???  It does not feel like hair… I was extra clean, from all the immersion, and it seemed a wicked waste of water to have a shower and to use shampoo when a few minutes later I would be back in the sea.  Tonight I couldn’t bear it a minute longer – a week is a big build-up of saltiness - and I now have soft fluffy (slightly surprised…) hair… But tomorrow morning when I see that lovely water, those coral outcrops…splishy splash…straight back in the sea, fluffy hair notwithstanding…

Pete is at the is very moment negotiating a clever deal involving one of the local water taxis

(here I am, sitting happily next to its resident dragon:



and a local water making concern.  We can buy 1000 litres of lovely fresh drinking and when water for about $25…  Our watertaxi men will bring out the bottles, we will unload them in the tanks, and they will take the bottles away!  MUCH cheaper than buying a watermaker of our own and then having to worry about it breaking down – as we know, things are ALWAYS breaking down on a boat.  Many benefits – one of them is that I will no longer have to be so very frugal with my showers…

Here are just some of our 50 bottles, looking very pretty on our taxiboat:



After our early morning walk from the ranger station on Rinca we went back to the boat, happy but not completely satisfied with our experience.  We had expected to be going on the 3 hour walk; instead we were back in less than an hour, and had only really gone to the top of a gentle hill, to the nest, and back. 

Pete was particularly keen to do the longer walk.  We had made friends with lots of the guides and rangers, hanging out in the café area, and one of them, Aji, had asked if he could come and visit 2XS.  We picked him up at 2.30, in the beautiful Marieke III dinghy – our was sadly deflated and undergoing urgent essential repair work by Captain Pete aka Macguyver…



Such a nice man, Aji, full of laughter and chat and information.  He has been working in the Komodo national Park for twenty years and is very knowledgeable, and passionate about his subject.  And VERY careful of the dragons!

At 3.00 he took us on the longer walk, which was just fabulous.  I had been a bit reluctant and had been muttering darkly to myself, It’s TOO HOT!!  I need a nap!  I want to read my book!  But, thank goodness, I followed Aji and Pete meekly into the dinghy and had a most wonderful time.

Three quarters of the walk was through the forest, on the flat.  Quiet and cool, surrounded by beautiful trees.

We saw this beautiful little blue hawk:



A water buffalo



A few dragons



monkeys and deer, a fascinating native bee hive, and it was all so beautiful…



An absolutely memorable day.

And now we are living in amongst the rally fleet again.  Boats are arriving daily and we are meeting up with old friends.  We are next to Pedoja.  Don and Tanya have loved the Komodo area as well and are leaving vey soon to see more deer and dragons.  We will stay here for a few days – battery problems…Pete has been contriving to keep our power supply together but last night was the first night he had slept though without waking every hour or so to turn things ON and OFF, or to ask me to turn things ON and OFF…

I am very happy to be here.  No deer, dragons, monkeys but it is a pleasant little town and there is a lovely Telkomsel man who loads up my modem with extra minutes and smiles benignly as I look far too thrilled with my extra internet time. 

There seems to be a post office, and a shop which sells postcards – amazing! 

We also found a lovely (if slightly – ummm – smelly) market close by, full of fish



(Some of them looked very like my dear darling friends from various coral outcrops I have been exploring…)

and lovely fruit and veg. Pete was called to pose for a photo with a shrimp lady



One of the best things I bought, in my technological buying frenzy before leaving Tasmania, was a little Selphy photo printer – a Canon gadget, less than $100.  It miraculously and speedily prints out beautiful colour photos, and I have been giving lots of people photos of themselves – there is hardly a present more pleasing to the recipient…We are going back to the market today and I think these ladies are going to be very happy indeed…usually they only get to see their photos, briefly, in the back of a tourist camera…



Late in the afternoon we went into town with Ingvar and Seija, in our lovely dragon-laden watertaxi.  Ingvar and Pete found beer; I found a new laundry bucket.  We explored the market and then went to a fabulous bar way up a whole lot of very steep high steps (Sky Bar) overlooking the city.  We had watermelon juice cocktails and then went next door to dinner, to a beautiful Italian restaurant called Made in Italy.  Why Italian, I hear you cry…Well why not?  We are loving the local food, but this was a different experience, and a very ambitious enterprise by a young Italian chef called Marco, who employs a bevy of tiny Indonesian women, who are all learning English, learning and wine, about tortellini, marcaroni, ravioli… Our dinner was delicious and VERY cheap (food) – very expensive also, (wine…)

Today has been devoted to filling the water tanks, all very interesting, with trips back and forth on our lovely taxiboat:



(Our darling dinghy in the foreground, Pedoja in background.)

Pete and I had a totally delicious lunch at a small roadside café and we caught up with a few RallyFriends.  Tonight we have been invited to dinner on Marieke III – they discovered, in the depths of their rapidly emptying freezer, some Tasmanian Angus eye fillet steak which they very kindly want to share with us.

I have just cleaned out our fridge and did not discover eye fillet; all I discovered was a rather yucky smell…

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