Monday 26th
March
We
didn’t manage to anchor off Three Hummock Island – there seemed to be no shelter
for 2XS at all. We went in close to shore,
and saw the three pretty white houses, which are now, I think, abandoned. It is a gorgeous island, with many inviting
beaches, orange-lichened rocks, rolling green hills covered with bush. It was getting dark by the time we realised
there was no anchorage so we scarpered very swiftly across to beautiful
Shepherd’s Bay on Hunter Island, where we had spent some time on the way from King
Island. It is a good anchorage, marred
only by a particularly ghastly and annoying swarm of mosquitoes which swirled around
our heads just after dark. It was the worst
lot of mosquitoes we have encountered on this whole eleven month journey and we
were mightily annoyed with them as they dive-bombed our ears. We soon put paid to their antics with a mosquito
coil, fetchingly balanced on a half-crushed XXX beer can. It meant sleeping with poisonous fumes but,
hey, who wouldn’t rather have poisonous fumes than a swarm of whining mosquitoes?
We
managed to cook up a very good dinner – mashed potatoes, steamed broccolini and
carrots, mushrooms, and a very sensational piece of steak from the King Island
supermarket. It doesn’t sound very flash
but it did look gorgeous on the plate and it felt gorgeous in the tummy as
well.
Speaking
of food, we had a wonderful dinner with David and Felicity on Saturday
night. David had rushed home a bit after
four to defrost a leg of lamb. Angela
had told us that David Kay is famous for his roasts (Boss Man Roasts, as they are
known on the NW Coast) but I didn’t think this one would be too flash, coming straight
from the freezer. I didn’t know David’s
culinary skills… He managed to defrost and partly cook it in the microwave, then
finished it off to perfection in the oven over a tray of boiling water, with perfect
roast potatoes etc etc. It was absolutely
delicious; we were mightily impressed. We
had a lovely evening, with a few interruptions for me to trot off and hang out
loads of washing.
Sunday
morning we rode our bikes back to their house to put all the clean dry washing (bliss!)
in our packs. (Felicity’s house, by the
way, is for sale, if you want an idyllic Stanley life. It is called Laughton House and it has four
big bedrooms, each with a bathroom because it had been a B & B. So if you want to live in beautiful Stanley and
run a B & B…look it up on the internet!)
Before
going back to 2XS, we rode up the hill (well, pushed our bikes up the hill…) to
Highfield House. It is run by Parks and
Wildlife now, and it was all very pleasant and very interesting. They have made a big effort to make it informative
but not overwhelming. I was particularly
taken by the diary entries from various ladies who had lived on or visited this
remote and windy farm in the early 1800s.
Mrs Rosalie Hare had walked up The Nut and had found it all very
bracing, but coming back down had been quite an ordeal. As well it might be, in her tiny little slippery
silk sandals! (I find it hard enough scrambling
down in my solid German walking shoes!)
She also found the convict labourers to be coarse, ugly and full of annoying
complaints about their lot in life. “They
only need to work from 6am till 6pm, and they are well housed and fed!” she fumed.
We
are about to leave for Marrawah, and I hope to find internet connection somewhere
out on the sea. Anything is
possible! These islands, in the Fleurieu
Group, are such a surprise. So many of
them, so expansive, isolated, beautiful, uninhabited.
It
is very cold but there seems to be no wind at the moment and the sea is calm. There were some other people here in this bay
in a catamaran, Gemini Lady, when we arrived.
They had just come up the West Coast and had very wild weather. Their screecher blew out (no I didn’t know what
that meant either… Pete says it means their big sail got shredded, not a good
thing.)
Conditions seem great right now so - no screechershredding for us!
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