26th September - Coral Gardens

Friday 26^th September

Yesterday was indeed picture-perfect.  It only took an hour to get to our destination – a small island with no visible name on the charts.  The charter boats call it the Coral Gardens.  So that will do.

It was very busy.  Island-hopping boats came and went; dive boats came and stayed a bit longer.  Snorkeling tours came and dislodged shrieking parties of happy people, all wearing bright life jackets.  I can’t imagine how busy it must be in tourist season.  This is very much the low season, because of the heavy rain most days.

Pete and I very much enjoyed our own snorkeling sessions – one to the left of 2XS, the other to the right.  There is a steep drop-off from the reef, which is always fascinating to see.  Lots of very small fish swimming around us in formation, lots of big bommies, each one slightly different from the other.

The coral was lovely but mostly sepia-tone, and there weren’t any big fish at all.  When we went to the Helldivers bar at 6pm we talked to Chris (Jim the owner’s son,) who has been coming here for the past 21 years.  He now works for Seadive and lives here permanently.  He said that when he first dived there it was a jungle of coral, a riot of colour, with many glorious fish of all sizes. 

So what has happened?  Well maybe the odd big storm, or extra-hot summer has damaged the reefs.  But mainly it is…dynamite fishing, and cyanide fishing.  Also the beach used to be big, stretching from one side of the island to the other.  A company in Manila came and mined it all, leaving only a small sliver of beach.  This didn’t do the environment and good at all.

So distressing…I won’t dwell on the environmental horrors but…I rather gather they are still dynamite fishing, cyanide fishing, sand mining…

On a cheerier note…we did have a wonderful day.  In the evening we went to the Coron Bistro (recommended by Dolores) for dinner.  Food here is very nice indeed.  (I had fish – Spanish mackerel; Pete had pork.)  Pete ordered drinks when we arrived – beer for him, and “for Marguerite” a Campari with ice.  And this is what arrived…a Campari with ice, and a margarita… Our poor waiter was mortified but really it was a very logical mistake to make.  (So I drank them both…)