Thursday le Quatorze Juillet

Aha yes Bastille Day!

There was lots of ooompapapa happening out in the main street, which is just across the carpark, really, from our marina, all starting about 7.30. We knew the parade was to start in earnest at 9.00 and indeed it did, right on time. The poor participants had been lining up and practising their drills and ooompapapas since the very early hours. Lots of people turned up to line the street. Noumea is not a particularly lively or happening sort of place so I suppose this morning was a much–anticipated highlight. We knew that the Australian Army Band was going to make a contribution to the festivities, and out they came, in kilts, playing, ofcourse, Waltzing Matilda. Not, I must say, the full Australian Army Band… Some old codgers, grey and bearded and mostly quite fat, having a lovely time. There were some speeches – fortunately not many – and the presentation of a few Legions d’Honneur. And then the parade! For such a small population, Noumea certainly has a lot of men, and a smattering of women in uniform. Many army troupes, armed to the teeth, ditto gendarmes, police, water police. The firemen and ambulance officers drove past, and there were about seven slightly sad-looking horses. The bike-riding police didn’t make an appearance but I have seen them around Noumea a lot, having a very nice time on shiny new bikes, wearing bright red helmets. Much more cheery looking than mounties...

Canadian Claude, on the small catamaran next to us, Celsius, didn’t go to the parade. But he did decorate his boat with a whole array of beautiful flags, in honour of the day. He is the only person we have come across with a bike like ours. Some people do have bikes, and I see them sometimes heaving them out of hatches, in many pieces. They have to re-construct them, and they never look quite right or quite safe.

A new big catamaran has come in – 48 foot, very big. Glide. We met Jeff, the owner, and his young son Alan. They had bought the boat in New Zealand and sailed it over here very dodgy seas and high winds. “Steep learning curve!” said Jeff, who seemed very happy to be hosing down the decks in the flat calm marina.

I had understood that the supermarket would be open until twelve, so after the parade, Pete and I rode off with backpacks and a list. We wanted eggs, baguettes, a hosepipe fitting. Alas I was mistaken; all shops were tight shut. I suggested we look for the fitting at the big Shell service station on the way back. Well they didn’t have any such thing but who would have thought? - they did have eggs, lots of groceries, beautiful fresh baguettes and – even better – most delicious pastries! We shared a pineapple and apricot delicacy back on 2XS, with a cup of coffee, and were very happy.

That was the end of poor Pete’s happiness for most of the rest of the day. He had to continue with his book-keeping, while I had the happy task of doing some washing in big buckets on the deck and then – BIG treat of scrubbing the decks. Now I am sure none of this sounds fun but…it is about 28 degrees today with a gentle breeze. And for many happy hours I was in charge of a hose with a big squirty gun nozzle thingy on the end (yes we did get the fitting; from the Capitainerie back at the marina…) and a big fat scrubbing broom. I had to shut all of the hatches so Pete was sweltering away while water swished invitingly around him outside. I listened to my ipod and I scrubbed and squirted and it was the best fun. I had to wear the horrid plastic sandals, to stop from slipping on the deck, or from treading on hard and pointy things, and I must say they were worth the nearly $20 I paid for them. I think I did the rounds of the entire boat about three times, climbing on the roof, hosing arcs of water into the sea, creating my very own personal rainbows. The boat was extraordinarily dirty, in places you wouldn’t imagine would even be susceptible to dirt. Right up on the roof, for example, where feet rarely tread. I think there must be lots of pollution in the air here…very sad. (And yes I too was totally filthy by the end of my labours.)

Before our dinner last night, our compatriots from The Owl came for a drink and a taste of some of our cheese and terrine. They had sussed out that there was to be a lantern parade at 7pm, so we were able to join in with this amiable festivity and stroll up the street to the Place des Cocotiers, where we were entertained with fireworks – lots of of oooh and aaah. I think the love of fireworks is universal – strange, isn’t? Must be a primeval urge, to see the sky lit up.

I think everyone enjoyed their food at Au P’tit Café. It was very crowded and lively. A very late night – it was well after eleven when we got to bed… Nick, if you are reading this – we needed you and your glowsticks; we would have livened up no end once we got back to the boat if you had been with us!

I hope to be able to do one last blog before we leave tomorrow, but you never know with the WiFi at Le Bout du Monde... If not, I will write again when next in internet range, maybe towards the end of the month...We are making our way to Port Vila (Vanuatu) in easy island-hopping stages.