Saturday, 26 January 2013

Sunday 27th January


Sunday 27th January

The wedding was so beautiful – full of love, laughter, sensational food, copious wine.  A splendid and wonderful bride and groom, lots of friends and family old and new – what more could we want? 

(Oh- a photo booth – what fun was that!  I got the card of the people who provided it, Duane and Christine, in case you want one for your next festive occasion – guaranteed to keep people in fits of laughter.  Nicola and Gus now have an album full of cheery photos and messages, with their nearest and dearest posing and sometimes shrieking in a variety of silly hats and moustaches. 

1300 303 700

if you want to enquire about this possibility for a forthcoming Big Event.)

Sunday 27th January

Can there be more MONAFOMA, I hear you cry?  Why yes!  Pete and I (finally) got into Faux Mo, the after-party in Bidencopes Lane.  It was indeed along the lines of if you build it they will come.  Bidencopes Lane isn’t all that attractive, in daylight.  It is full of lurid graffiti murals and back doors.  But done up for a Faux Mo party it was quite spectacular, with a disco feel – lights, DJs, music, flame-grilled hot dogs. 

Pete and I got a drink and sat on a handy comfy couch and watched the flame-grilling with great interest.  This stall is owned by a father-and-daughter combo, very handy with the blow-torches and speedy at assembling what looked like delicious hamburgers.  I watched with some alarm as Kylie Quon sauntered over to look – the father-and-daughter combo weren’t in the least fazed but I would have trembled in my boots of Kylie Quon, chef par excellence, came to watch me cook!

We were actually waiting to get into the downstairs area, fiercely closed off by a team of security guards.  We asked one of them what was down there, and the answer was, We have no idea.  Good strategy; keep it mysterious!  When we finally did get down there, what did we see??  Well nothing much at all… Several large rooms, one of which was the old Tatler cinema.  This was only relevant to a few of us; Pete and I were amongst the very oldest people there by several decades, the only ones likely to remember the Tatler.  The rooms filled up with a bright, cheery crowd of hipsters, some of whom were wearing extraordinary outfits: 

   tight shorts, topknots, tight home-knitted jumpers with animal designs (boys)
   50s dresses and flowery hats (girls)

Nobody seemed to mind the presence of a few oldfarts so we wandered around and then found another comfy couch, where we sat, bemused but happy, for a few hours.  There were random happens – a disco in the Tatler room, a small below-ground dance floor where the projector screens must once have lurked, a random small Asian woman playing an obscure and very quiet instrument and then singing, soprano and very loudly, a strange Asian song.

When we left the whole laneway was heaving with happycampers, dancing – was this really Hobart, on a Sunday night??

India #76

Ali Baba, who Pete met by chance in a plumbing shop.  Yes indeed, this was his New Best Friend’s name.  … Should have been some sort of clue… We had been invited for dinner at seven, so, being punctual Australians there we were, delivered to the designated address by a slightly silent Raj.  Hmmm. Were we at a warm and welcoming Ali Babar house?  No indeed…we were at a jewellery shop…with our three bottles of cold Kingfisher.  We rolled our eyes at one another and entered, a bit reluctantly.  Pete, ever the optimist, said that this might be the perfect opportunity for me to buy a gold bracelet.  It had been one of my aims, while in India, to buy one thing made out of gaudy Indian 22 carat gold, and I had been singularly unsuccessful thus far in getting within cooee of real gold in a real jeweller’s shop.
         
Ali wasn’t there. Yet.  His offsider, known as Smile Ali – yes he did smile ALL the time; he was a very annoying man – stayed back to entertain us while we waited and WAITED for Ali Babar.  He brought us glasses so we could drink our rapidly heating Kingfisher and there we sat, surrounded by jewels and faced with a huge smile and a fairly unpleasant line of conversation.  Smile Ali was a really sleazy bloke, with, as I said, a line of conversation – hot chickybabes, dubious nightclubs – which made me very uncomfortable.  Pete just sat, stoically polite but not smiling back much at Smile Ali.  We managed to interrupt the flow for a brief moment – did they have any gold bracelets in this shop?  Well yes – and here is one just perfect for the Little Lady.  And yes indeed it was.  I have never been one to covet jewellery – after all whatever would have been the point?? – but this was truly gorgeous.  I gasped and stretched my eyes and wanted it very badly.  It was made of flat links of gaudy gold interspersed with white gold, just beautiful.  OK how much??  Well, said Smile Ali, expansively, it is really very cheap.  Only 1500.  Pete and I exchanged cautious looks – this was very cheap, about $50.  Surprisingly astoundingly cheap.  No haggling needed; he said that he would buy it for me straight up.  We chatted away about it for quite some time – was the clasp strong enough etc etc – and then it dawned on us – NOT 1500 rupees, 1500 US DOLLARS.  Gasp once again.  I dropped it like a hot potato, although my eyes still slid covetously towards the little pouch I knew it was resting in… But no, I could never justify spending that much on one single bracelet, too silly for words. 
         
And where was Ali Babar?  Why off at a temple, praying, ofcourse!  Licking his chops at the thought of his Australian juicy prey more likely, and waiting for us to be softened up with Smile Ali-induced boredom and rapidly warming Kingfisher.  Finally in he came, wreathed in smiles and exuding bonhomie.  Would we like to come into his inner sanctum and listen to him talk talk talk for another three quarters of an hour…I was very bored; Pete was very polite.  Out came a big portfolio of Ali Babar’s artwork – hundreds of exquisite miniature paintings, with goldleaf, each painted by his own fair hand, and each taking at least a week to complete.  Well I don’t think so…and yes they were excessively cheap, only US$100 or thereabouts each; why didn’t I buy a dozen?  I murmured soothingly, “Yes very beautiful, oh how lovely, aren’t you clever, but no thank you, not even now you are showing me Kama Sutra ones, no thank you very much, very lovely, but NO.”  And then FINALLY he came to the moneyshot.  He lives six months of the year in Sydney, and his Australian wife Lea would love to talk to us on the phone.  We protested – it would have been about 2am in NSW, but no he said she would LOVE to talk to us, his new bestfriends.  She was very cheery, and very wide-awake for 2am.  Hmmm…. I asked her a few pertinent questions, eg, “Where do your children go to school?”  “Locally,” she said, unhelpfully.  When I had finished talking to Lea, I said, casually, to Ali, “So where do your children go to school, in Sydney?”  “Umm…The Victorian Something or Another.”  Yes ofcourse, all schools in New South Wales are called the Victorian Something or Another!!  By now I was getting tired, hungry, grumpy.  I was ready to get to my feet and say, “Well I’m off!  Pete, have fun with Ali Babar and Smile Ali!!”  Poor Pete, he was being more polite and forbearing than me…
         
Ali must have decided it was time for the Big Pitch.  Almost casually, he started out with saying that, as we were now such Great Friends, would we like to help him out?  He has two jewellery shops in Sydney and has trouble getting jewels out of India and into Australia, there is a limit to how much he can bring into the country each trip.   Maybe I would like to wear a ruby necklace, carry one in my bag, ditto with bracelets, and Pete could do the same.  Well yes Pete would look very lovely bedecked in rubies and emeralds… When we got back to Tasmania, Ali would drive down to Hobart in his BMW and pick up the jewels.  We would be rewarded with $10,000 each.  Did he think we were totally stupid or what???  I just sat back and watched Ali with a jaundiced eye; Pete asked, in polite tones, how Ali was going to guarantee that we wouldn’t just scarper with the jewels.  “Well no problem, my friend!  If you just give me your passport and your credit cards, I will photocopy them, and if there is a problem I can recoup the money.”  He had a whole folder full of testimonials from delighted people all over the world who had helped him out in this precise way; we would be very foolish to miss out on the opportunity.  By this stage – I am a bit slow – I had recognised that we were in the midst of The Jewellery Scam.  I had read about it in several places in Lonely Planet.  What happens is that the poor unsuspecting people who decide to help out Ali Babar and his kin get back to their country of origin only to find that their credit cards have been cleared out of quite a lot of money.  When they go to sell the jewellery to recoup the money, the jewels, ofcourse are worth very little.  Pete hadn’t read these pages in Lonely Planet, but he was not going to be conned, not at all.  He thanked Ali for the wonderful opportunity, and said, “We’re not really interested.  We don’t need $20,000 that badly.  But we are hungry, and would like some dinner.”
         
Ali did in fact cough up for a meal.  He took us to a cheap and cheerful restaurant.  I am sure that if we had given him our credit card details we would have been indulging in Fine Dining… He also paid for Raj to eat with us, which made me happy.  Ali didn’t really talk to us much during the meal, which was a blessing.  But before we left, he told us that the offer was open, that we could even get in touch with him from Udaipor, our next port of call, and he would rush some jewels down to us.  When Raj drove us back to our hotel, we asked how he knew Ali.  He told us that Ali is a famous man in the district; famous for being married to an Australian woman, and for having (dodgily) made a lot of money.  “But,” he said, darkly, “I would never have taken you to his shop, if it had been up to me.”

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