Tuesday 17th April

On our last night, in Recherche Bay, we came across a very battered looking yacht, Alcidae III.  On board was a very battered Canadian sailor, Greg, with his beautiful un-battered tabby cat, which came on board in Chile. 

Greg had meant to go to New Caledonia but ended up in Tasmania, in Recherche Bay.  As you do, on your way back from the Kerguelen Islands… He is a very experienced round-the-world sailor but says the Southern Ocean is not for him.  His yacht has sustained considerable damage, as have his poor jammed fingers.

Pete took a great interest in Greg and was very keen to help him out, as so many people have helped us, along the way.  Today he took Greg to the supermarket, and no doubt is plying him with beer and food.
The Southern Ocean is indeed awe-inspiring, even at the altitude we went to (only 43 degrees south.)  Greg went to 50…while Paul and Caroline, the Dutch people we met at Clayton’s Corner, went right into the Antarctic ice, as well as into the Arctic Circle.

On our wildest day at sea in this very forbidding ocean, as we came around the very bottom of Tasmania, we had winds up to 60 knots and huge swells.  It was absolutely amazing.  The sea was silvery grey, with occasional white caps and flurries of spray.  It was so very beautiful, and, to our great good fortune, not particularly cold because the wind, for once, was coming from the north.  I am looking forward to hearing some of Greg’s stories.  I don’t think his experience was quite as benign…

I am actually back on board tonight...don't ask...Pete needed a ride home from the Tasmanian CLub, where he had been having a long long lunch with three Salmons - Peter, Graeme, Don.