Thursday 27 October 2016

28th October 2016 - Townsville - 23/11/06 Bagaman Island,Louisiades,PNG

Friday 28th October 2016


Oh how tattered is our poor flag!
Townsville.  Hot! 

Last night we met up with my in-laws. Sharon, Lindy and John at the Seaview Hotel, along the Strand.  It is a big, casual pub, with a large airy beer garden.  Specialising in chicken parmies and rump steak with chips.  All very causal and pleasant.  We were happily chatting when suddenly there was a rumpus and a ruckus – a young chap, very drunk and probably behaving badly, was flung to the ground by two large and fairly calm bouncers.  He thrashed and screamed and hurled very nasty invectives.  It was all quite horrible and apparently I screamed.  (Michael, my hyper-critical son, was not impressed…)  It was all over quite soon and Lindy and I were able to share with everyone the information that this very same badboy had chatted to us at the bar, quite benignly, when we went up to get our drinks.

Sharon, Lindy, John
Michael drove us back to the marina and then went home.  On his way past Stocklands (shopping mall) he came across a large gang of boys, fighting, with police cars ariving, sirens blaring.  He had been trying to tell us that Townsville is Crime Central, but it all seems so very solid and benign to us.  Except maybe for our pink-cheeked drunk boy at the Seaview…

We have nearly finished all of our boat jobs.  I have scoured my last surface and have emptied out many cupboards.  The garbage bins at Breakwater Marina are groaning under the load!  Pete has met up with a nice young mechanic called Brad who thinks he will be able to fix the engine.  A BIG job but at least it is now about to happen.  Pete was a bit worried because everyone he spoke to (until Brad) was just too busy.   

So now maybe I will go back to missing bits of blog, starting where I left off, more or less

Friday 23rd September

11 degrees 08.561S
152 degrees 43.393E
Bagaman Island
Louisiades, PNG



At last we are back in this beautiful anchorage, off a beautiful curved beach, surrounded by sand and large coral bommies, on Bagaman Island.  This is where we thought we were heading, when we left Hobart in 2013…But instead of turning left at Cairns, we turned right instead and joined the Sail Komodo Indonesia Rally.

Moses and Pete
It is five years, almost exactly, since we were here last.  There are more children; Moses’s little boy Mark is now six, and there is a new little cheeky toddler, Kedari.  Cheery Sam, from another village along the bay, who perched on the deck chatting to Rachel, looking for all the world like a dark pixie, died recently.  So did Monica, one of the three girls (Monica, Maggie and Lakmae) who visited us regularly, full of giggles, in 2011.  She was only fifteen and died of some mysterious complaint before she could get to hospital.  Her namesake aunt Monica said, darkly, “Black magic.”

Lyla and Marguerite
But the water is the same, clear, cool, lovely.  I have swum the length of the beach a couple of times already.  Yesterday I saw all of my old familiar bommies, a lot of fish, one turtle, and one large and very startled shark.  By large I mean about the same size as I am… I had swum over a large bommie and came upon it unaware.  I hung back a bit, watching it, and then suddenly it sensed my presence and off it went into the deep blue, as fast as its fins would carry it.

Bagaman children

Moses brought this family to visit last night - Lyla and the three boys.  I heard the canoe pull up, and went out into the dark, saying, quite sternly, “No visitors until tomorrow!”  A deep voice came from below, “But it is Moses!”  And so of course the whole family was welcome to come on board and eat some of my leftover birthday cake.


(Aunt) Monica
We have had a few visitors today, but all in modest numbers, with not too many demands.  My sewing machine has been whirring away.  The boys seem to wear out their shorts in a most alarming manner.  They wear them hanging around their legs with no bottom or penis coverage at all… They seem very happy to have them back all in one piece, with their modesty once again protected.


Lyla and boys (MarkMos and Kedari)
Tonight we have ben invited to Moses and Lyla’s house.  They still live with his father and mother, Gulo and Sanity, with big brother Keith and big sister Barbara, and a random collection of young boys, loosely related.  I have warned Pete NOT to stand up straight inside the house.  Last time we went there he got to his feet and clonked his head on an overhead beam.  I still have the photo of the gaping wound on his poor bald head…

And tomorrow we have been invited to Letma’s house.


Letma
Moses has been very busy working for us already.  He got up at dawn and went diving – we now have the fridge stocked with beautiful lobster.  And today he is cleaning the hulls, with coconut fibre.  He is very strong, with a most impressive six-pack, but when I came back from my swim I found him clinging to the anchor chain puffing and panting.  It is very hard work.  I have been struggling away with the green slime and the barnacles and haven’t made much impact at all.


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