Friday, 3 July 2015

4th July - Sorong - Pulau Doom - Papua

Saturday 4th July 2015

0 degrees 52.995S
131 degrees 14.168E
Pulau Doom
Sorong, Papua
10m


Cheery Doom Girl
We arrived in Sorong and intended to get out of there as swiftly as possible.  Sorong isn’t a bad town, but the anchorage in the harbour isn’t very pleasant.  Dirty and noisy, and there is really nowhere to leave the dinghy.  All of the jetties are Private Property and the access from dinghy to shore is perilous in any case – slippery, sharp, smelly…


Our beautiful Doom anchorage, so close to Sorong!
But – oh so lucky – we saw a big yacht (SV Four Friends, NZ,) anchored near a little island in the harbour so we went closer to ask them how things were.  And things are great!  This is Pulau Doom.  Doom is absolutely the wrong word for this delightful little island!


Gorgeous Doom Girls
We are peacefully anchored in 10 metres of clean-ish water, and the village nearby is full of colourful houses, with very friendly people.



There seem to be thousands of children, all beaming.


Pete with Deddy, Carlos, Orlando and Echo
And there is a nice man called John, who will look after the dinghy for not very much per day.


John, giving Pete a stern warning re BadBoys
And getting to town – easypeasy!  If you don’t mind a small narrow rock & roll boat jam-packed with people…But MUCH nicer than going in to shore in the dinghy to find Private Propery and slippery slimy sharp rocks.



We had a quick stop at the Harbour Master office and then off to Immigration.  It all seemed to be taking forever…so we rang Eflin, our contact from Stephy and Martin (Raja Ampat Dive Resort.) 



Eflin acts as an agent and sponsor, for $50 per person.  And well worth it...

Everything stops for lunch, in the Immigration office, so we went off on our other quest– the fuel barge office, leaving kindly Eflin to wait for the office people to return.  We had the address – 8A Jalan Gunung Gamalama.  The problem is…there are no town maps and nobody knows where anything is.  So – not such an easy quest!  Eflin had suggested we go in a bemo as far as the Mona Lisa Hotel, where there MIGHT be some Gunung streets.  We were very hot and slightly bothered by the time our bemo driver dropped us off…right near the Mamberamo Hotel…and we knew that this hotel has a very nice bar.  Why not go in there and ask for directions??


BLISS!!
Our kindly barman didn’t know where our street was, but he suggested walking up – yes – to the Mona Lisa Hotel, where there might be some Gunung streets.  Not sure why they are called Gunung – gunung means mountain and this is the flattest part of Sorong…Never mind!  We asked all and sundry along the way, because people here are so very friendly, and they all want to chat and help.  They would wave their arms in this direction, and that, but…nobody really knew where Jalan Gunung Gamalama was.


Sorong is very colourful!
Along the way we found a very grand building, unlike anything else in Sorong.  Wow!  What was it?



Well…an executive club, of course!



And finally…our street!



It was not the sort of place one would expect to find a busy fuel office.  In fact it looked as if tumbleweeds would blow along at any moment.



There were, of course, cheery children wanting to be photographed.  When I first saw these girls they were sitting in the barrels in the driveway – a perfect photo opportunity, I thought.  But no of course they wanted to do The Universal Pose!



And at last 8A!  A suburban house, with no sign of fuel-ishness about it.  But we knocked and were greeted very civilly; it was the right place, indeed.  But…we needed to buy 1,000 litres and they can only sell a minimum of 3,000.



So…back along the colourful streets



to meet Eflin, at Saga Supermarket.  She had our papers so we are now free to be in Indonesia for another month. 

Back to the little ferryboats…Once more we were jammed in and off we went but…suddenly, before we had left the shore, it all went wrong and we had to get off onto an adjacent one, clambering out with not much dignity with all of our heavy shopping bags.



The second boat took off backwards between some big solid concrete pilings and then there was another bit of a bugger-up and we started smashing into the pilings side on.  BANG, CRASH, SMASH, SPLASH.  It was, I say mildly, very unpleasant.  The extraordinary thing was how calm all of the passengers were.  They were totally happy and confident, with the odd appreciative giggle as yet another large wave smashed through the plastic side curtains.  I did some deep breathing and sat very still.  I was a bit worried about our shopping going to the bottom of the sea – many cans of beans, a large cabbage, some precious Fuji apples, cheese.  Pete of course wanted to FIX things, by going onto the deck and pushing the boat away.  He started getting to his feet.  Well you can’t get to your feet in these boats, there is only about one metre of clearance, so he was having some difficulty as the boat crashed and ricocheted into the pilings.  I said very sternly, NO, PETE!!  (He paid no attention to this at all.)  I did not want him being a human buffer!  Fortunately the boatmen got us up and running, with many more merry smashes into hard concrete.  Not sure how the boat didn’t get smashed to smithereens, but maybe this happens all the time??



We were very happy to get to our beautiful little Island of Doom!  I bought some eggs at the little market, and then we got into two bicycle rickshaws and had a beautiful ride back to the dinghy, with just a little bit of a walk along the waterfront path to get us there.


We were happier than I can describe to be back on 2XS…A few cheery children came to visit and we said, Yes lovely come back tomorrow…I had just enough energy to cook stir-fried prawns and to drink a G & T while watching the beautiful sunset.



It is so nice we are spending another night at Pulau Doom.  Pete thinks he has organised another source of fuel, arriving today at 4pm.  We will see!



Thursday, 2 July 2015

3rd July - Waisai to Waibila - Sorong - fuel - immigration

Friday 3rd July 2015

05 degrees 55.259S
130 degrees 58.603E
S. Waibila
16m, anchored


Yesterday we put some more fuel in the tanks – I siphoned it in while Pete went back and forth with the little ute.  And then, suddenly, we were off and away!  Farewell to Waisai, off to Sorong!  It was quite windy and wild but not as bad as we had feared.  At 4.30pm we found ourselves in a beautiful peaceful, calm anchorage.  Flat sea, not a breath of wind.  Oh the relief…

Same same, pretty pretty
This morning we are heading for Sorong, because we have to renew our visas.  They expire tomorrow, hence the rush.  Pete is hoping to be able to get fuel from the fuel boat in the harbor.  Not as easy as one might think… He has to go to an office in town to  fill in many many forms before we can go and get fueled up.  Yesterday he managed to get money from the ATMs in Waisai.  Also a big procedure – sometimes they work, sometimes they are out of order.  Sometimes they let you get a bit of money, sometimes a lot.  Sometimes none.  Bearing in mind that 10,000 rupiyah = $10, he needs a bit roll of cash…So here we have Tony Soprano Headlam!



We probably won’t stay in Sorong overnight – maybe we will go back to peaceful S. Waibila, and then on to pastures new.

Wednesday, 1 July 2015

2nd July - Waisai adventures - police - Sapokreng Village - Papua (Raja Ampat)

Thursday 2nd July 2015

Yesterday was a day of Waisai/Waigeo Island adventure.  In the morning, the day belonged to – POLISI!


Apparently Johnson isn’t called Johnson at all; his name is something like Bergeon.  He is lovely and kind and helpful – for example he turned up on the pontoon in the middle of the night to see if we needed help with our ropes.  But he isn’t a police officer, he is something Fikri described as “boatman.”  Maybe water police??

Anyway…yesterday we went to Fikri’s office in our underpowered little hired ute, and then he took us to the main police station in Waisai.  Out in the sticks, about ten minutes drive from town!  The police have a nice little encampment there, with dormitories, chooks, a soccer ground, a bit of rubble. 


We had a serious interview in an office


Serious work at the police station
and then proceeded in convoy to 2XS.  Our young contingent of police were delighted beyond words to be on a yacht.



In Bali, the police are on and off boats of all sorts every day.



but not in Waisai!  I printed out photos for them all (thank God for the CanonSelphy printer – best toy on the boat!) and then they requested…a group hug!  (More or less…)



(The photo reveals quite a lot of the ropes securing poor 2XS to the pontoon…one of them frayed and just about snapped during the night.  It was NOT a good night!)

After we had done our photo opportunities and interviews, we added up how much we had lost.  Replacement cost for our lost items came to between $300-400 so it was worth making a fuss.  To discourage the others!

Pete disappeared in the posse, and I drove the underpowered ute into town.  I was an object of admiration and amazement – WOOHOO!  WEEHEE, shouted many young men on motorbikes, or loitering along the roadways.  I made sure to rev the (underpowered…) engine as impressively as I could as I chugged on by…

I parked outside our favourite restaurant and trotted along to Randy Salon & Bridal to give them a copy of the photo I had taken the day before. THRILLED TO BITS!!  (Oh how I love the Power For Good of the little photo printer!)

And then I went in to drink iced lemon tea and to savour the green GREEN ambiance…Yesterday they were watching Wolverine, loudly. Today it was Maleficent, also loudly but not quite as ghastly.  Every now and then the power cuts off and - oh - the blissful silence!  Nobody ever gets to see a whole movie.  It is a busy little restaurant; people come in and get their plates full of vegetables, rice, chilli eggs, fish. They eat it down swiftly, with delicious glasses of freshly made iced lemon tea, and then off they go.  With Wolverine ringing in their ears!



We went back to the boat and decanted the fuel and then, at last, it was time to have a bit of a tour of Waigeo Island.  There aren’t many roads to choose from, so we went left, along the coast, up and down steep hills.  The road was OK, mostly bitumen, with a few potholes.  But very steep and challenging for the poor little ute!  On the way we met some – Europeans!!  Walking their dog!!



Martin and Steffi work at the Raja Ampat Dive Resort, and have been there for two years.  They were full of information, and we enjoyed our chance meeting with them very much.

They said there was a village – Sapokreng – at the end of the road.  What they didn’t say was that the road doesn’t actually go to Sapokreng… By the time we got to the dead end, the ute suddenly showed an alarmingly EMPTY sign on the fuel indicator.  It had been saying FULL all the way… It would have been a long slow walk back to Waisai.  No petrol stations, of course.


End of the road
Just a beautiful little beach,



a very old lady gathering firewood,



and a very nice man, Yan, who picked up an empty bottle under the Bird Watching Area sign and told us to follow him to the village, where we should be able to buy fuel.



It was quite a long walk, through the jungle, on a narrow, steep track.  Just beautiful, if unexpected.  And even more unexpected, at the end of the track – a concrete pathway and then a marvellous wide boardwalk!



The village itself was just delightful. 



Very neat and tidy, spick and span, like all the Papuan villages we have seen thus far.



Everyone had nifty arrangements for kitchen duties.



Yan walked back with us, carrying our fuel.  He was very solicitous of my welfare and found a nice walking stick for me.  Pete, on the other hand, was left to fend for himself…So we got a lovely walk, and the thirsty ute got a drink.



With the help of a gathering crowd…


The boys were very keen to pose for a photo; they shrieked with joy when I showed them, after they had arranged themselves into their favourite fierce pose.



We said goodbye to our benefactor, gave him a bit of money, and off we chugged, up and down the hills, to get home just in time for sunset.


On the way we saw a beautiful red and blue bird.  I saw it settle in a tree and asked Pete to stop STOP RIGHT NOW!!  He was a bit alarmed but stopped and I leapt out, ran back up the hill, and there it was, a glorious parrot!  Unfortunately…I couldn’t really focus or zoom in with my iPhone because there were big waving leaves between me and the bird, which confused the camera.  But…I am posting the photo anyway, blurry or not!



We are very excited to be watching the night sky, with Venus and Jupiter so close together, and the full moon!  I looked it up on Google and found that this configuration is visible all over the world, at different times in the night.  A unified world!  So wonderful!

From the internet