Thursday, 4 June 2015

4th June - Batanta Island - fabulous hornbills - Sorong

Thursday 4th June 2015

0 degrees 46.294S
130 degrees 53.634E
Batanta Island
24 metres, mangroves, corral


At 11am yesterday we decided, after all, to leave our safe little floating pontoon in Waisai and to start on our way to Sorong.  We slightly miscalculated the distance, and anchored halfway, on Batanta Island, in a beautiful sheltered bay, lined with mangroves.


There were hundreds of birds tweeting, trilling, squawking, in the lush jungle.  I went for a swim to check out the coral because we have decided that this anchorage will be a good place to take John as soon as we leave Sorong.  He will be able to go for a swim, listen to the birds, enjoy the peace and quiet. 


And then the next day – on to even more beautiful Raja Ampat islands!

We met Jemimah and Randy in Monserat, in the Gulf of Davao.  Jemimah has become my Facebook friend and I have pinched one of the photos she put on one of her posts recently.  Just because…it is a nice cheery photo and meeting Jemimah and Randy is worth remembering.

Jemimah's selfy
0 degrees 53.116S
131 degrees 15.650E
Sorong (Indonesian PNG)
18m depth

We arrived here at 10.30am and spent the WHOLE day in Immigration, with an extra few hours in an off-shoot of the Jabatan Laut (Harbour Master) office. 

I spent most of the time waiting waiting waiting thinking about…the birds in the lovely bay on Batanta island…


At dusk last night we heard loud squawking and there, silhouetted against the clouds, was a flock of big hornbills, going from one side of the bay to the other in small groups.
Glorious hornbills!
Sorong is just fine but…I would prefer to be with the birds and the fish!!


Tuesday, 2 June 2015

3rd June - near disaster - Beware the buoys of Waisai!

Wednesday 3rd June 2015


Well I think my last few words regarding our plans for today indicated that we would be lolling about on 2XS, secure on our big fat mooring.  The very biggest fattest mooring we have ever been on, in fact.  I had swum around and inspected the connections to The Deep and was very impressed with the big fat chain and the big fat rope.

Last night there was quite a big storm.  Serious wind, a bit of rain.  Bang crash, went the mooring against the hull.   BANG and CRASH.  We sort of slept through this; nothing much we could do to cushion the sound, really.  At a bit before 4am Pete got up to turn the alarm on…just in case… He had only just switched it on when WHEEEE WHEEE, off it went, accompanied by even louder BANG and CRASH.  I leapt out to join him and found him gunning the engines and heading for…well not for the hills, but for the open sea.

For light relief…a close-up of one of the giant dolphins under construction
Pete thought our poor little rope had broken off.  But in fact, our poor little rope is still intact, if rather twisted and frayed after a ghastly night.  What broke was the rope attached to the chain on the actual mooring. 

So we spent the early hours of today slowly cruising around, reliving the horrid moment when Pete realised we were loose and crashing onto the reef.  It would only have been a matter of minutes and we would have been completely wrecked on the harsh unforgiving land.

The mooring stayed firmly attached, banging and crashing occasionally, moving from the outside to the inside of the starboard hull.


We had been given a waypoint inside The Duckpond, by Suzi and Dave (SV Sidewinder – so much useful information we got from them!)  As soon as it was daylight we headed towards the co-ordinates they had given us, and found, to our surprise, a small floating pontoon, with a few boats tied up.

When we got closer…yes,we could see his arms!
We could see a man in a white singlet, busily signaling to us.  The problem was…it was still quite dark and we couldn’t see his arms at all, only his bright singlet.  As we got closer we could see he was pointing this way and that, with the occasional very complex direction which involved holding his arms in a sort of arabesque above his head, which didn’t mean anything to us at all.


But…we got in and tied up, with much help from the very friendly denizens of the pontoon.  Nobody spoke English at all, but we all got by with lots of smiles, and a bit of Bahasa.  And a chocolate biscuit for young David…



We are going to stay here tonight – I think that is what David’s kindly father indicated, in a mixture of Papuan, Bahasa and English…Pete has disappeared, surrounded by helpers, to find out a bit more.  I am sitting in the cabin drinking coffee and shuddering faintly…




Beware the buoys of Waisai!

2nd June - Equator - Pulau Pef - Waisai (Raja Ampat)

Tuesday 2nd June 2015

In my excitement at getting to Waisai, and finding connection to the internet, I forgot to write a bit more about crossing the equator.  I had taken some very spectacular photos.  This is what it looks like:

Hmmmm….
And here are some equatorial birds, on their improvised raft.


I also didn’t mention going to Pulau Pef.  This is an absolutely beautiful little island, with what seems like a very nifty little resort, run by an Austrian couple. 

We arrived just before dark and pulled up close to the jetty, where we discovered – sigh – that the resort was closed for renovations, as from…yesterday…We had been so looking forward to a restaurant meal, and the use of the resort internet.  But all was well; we were directed around the back of the island, through some very imposing rocks which looked as if they were off the set of Lord of the Rings, 


and into a peaceful sheltered backwater.

MANY birds - not visible!
We were supposed to go and register, and pay for the mooring but…we were just…well there is no word for it other than BUGGERED.  We did not have the energy to lower the dinghy and go and fill in forms.  I have written an apologetic, even possibly groveling, letter to the resort people; I hope they let us come back – we will pay then! 


There were hundreds of birds, twittering, singing, trilling.  We couldn’t really see them at all, but they were entrancing to hear.  And Captain Pete spotted a huge great nest



which impressed us mightily.  We didn’t see anything near big enough to warrant such a nest; maybe the eagles had flown off for their own holiday, along with the resort owners.


0 degrees 26.585S
130degrees 26.636E
Pula Pef mooring – 20m depth; very sheltered

It is quite a long way from our big fat yellow mooring to the town of Waisai.  We decided to hail a water taxi to get us there rather than risking it in the little dinghy.

“Hailing a water taxi” sounds very grand… What we did was wave at a passing dug-out. 




Matias was very happy to take us into town, and to wait to bring us back, for 200,000 rupiyah ($20.  For this amount I think he would have driven us to Pulau Pef and Wayag and back…) 


So we had a few hours in Waisai.  Pete and I have found ourselves more often than you could imagine stuck in a place where everything is closed because it is a public holiday.  For no discernible reason.  Today is a Tuesday and – yes – a public holiday in Waisai!  I think South East Asia has a great many public holidays.  Not sure if the workers get paid, but everything certainly shuts down!

Many boats stuck in the mud
Fortunately the market didn’t shut down and we were able to replenish our supplies of onions, tomatoes, potatoes etc.  We had used every single bit of fresh fruit and veg and we were very happy to get a new lot.


Waisai seemd to me like a Wild West town.  Big wide streets, a certain emptiness.  No tumbleweeds…

But some very interesting shops.  I just loved the Randi Salon and Brydal.  It was full of gorgeous glittery items of clothing, and in the adjoining room (salon) there were women sitting under big old-fashioned hairdryers. 


We got some pulsa (top-up) for our phones.  This transaction was handled with care by a serious young chap


with the most amazingly impractical fingernails.


Most of the children in the street were happily playing marbles in the dust.  Pete stopped to have a go but…he is out of practice.


I think that the Waisai City Council has ideas of grandeur. 


Not quite sure what they are aiming at…


But on the waterfront there is an enormous expanse of parkland under construction.

With an avenue leading to…


Waisai’s very own Eiffel Tower!


Matias was ready and waiting to take us back to 2XS.


As soon as we got back, I leapt into the water.  From his little dugout we had been able to see beautiful clear water and gorgeous coral – I was going for a look!  Yesterday the tide had been very strong and there was no way of swimming in any direction other than – whoosh THAT way!  But today it was all gentle and easy and I had a wonderful swim.


Unfortunately my underwater camera refused to take more than one (rather pathetic…) photo


of a lovely fish which has  taken up residence near the propeller. 


Tomorrow we are going to stay here on the mooring before we go to Sorong to pick up our faithful friend John Miedecke on the 5th.  He is going to LOVE Raja Ampat!!

Today's BirthdayBoy:

Gavin Wakefield!

Gav in the air!