Friday, 10 October 2014

11th October - Busuanga to Manila


Saturday 11th October


So far nobody, coming or going, has had a kind word to say about Manila.  Worst place I have ever been, is the general consensus.  

An old bit of Manila
And…BE VERY CAREFUL! were the words I heard over and over from our friends in Coron.

Please note - there is blue sky - from the plane it looked as if the city was shrouded in smog
But…so far so good.  We are staying at the (very) cheap &cheerful Tune Hotel, in central Makati.  Pete was a bit crushed.  “It looked much bigger in the photos on the internet!”  Well yes of course; they use a fish-eye lens!  There is, however, room (just) to walk around the bed.  And said bed is very clean and comfortable.  The bathroom is roomy enough to wash my travel dress and the shower has a great big flower-type head.  What more could we want??  It s much bigger than our cabin on 2XS, where I have to climb over Pete like a ninja every time I want to go to the toilet.  (This presents a different complicated challenge every night; I never know where his legs are going to be deployed…)



Speaking of our beloved 2XS…We woke at 5.30 and went straight to Action Stations.  Baby Johanna and her mother stayed out in the cockpit, having a bit of a gentle feed and play.  Pete and Bernard went into a cleaning frenzy; I washed all of our bed linen and towels.  And we got to Seadive at 7.00, in time to have breakfast before the shuttle van came to collect us.

Bernard, Renalyn, Johanna, Pete
Bernard has his own little outrigger dinghy, and it looks very cute, tied up behind its big companion catamaran.

2XS and outrigger in the dawn's early light
We were on the same flight as Toby and Rosie, who are on their way to Davao to visit Rosie’s three children – Elisa, 11, Cy, 8, Ly, 6.  She misses them most dreadfully and this week is going to fly past much too quickly… (They live with her parents, who have already raised their own 8 offspring.  This is often the way in the Philippines; Rosie has to get work where she can, to support them.)

Rosie and Toby
The flight was swift and easy…and then we had to get a taxi to Makati.  We had been told ONLY to get a yellow cab; the big white ones are far too expensive and unpredictable.  So we stood in a long, uncomplaining queue for…an hour and a half… There were several hundred people waiting, turning up their collective noses at the big white vans which were charging at least three times more than the yellow cab fare.

The queue is fading away and losing the will to live
Things got a little bit more exciting when we realised there was an unattended bag on the seats at the end of the queue.  There was a lot of discussion before security was called… We would have been blown to smithereens had it been dodgy…Mind you most of the people in the queue had more or less lost the will to live by the time we found this golden bag in our midst so there was not quite the frenzied panic one might have expected.

Nothing clears and area like an abandoned bag
Our taxi driver – YES!!  A yellow cab just for us did turn up – was very quietly spoken (this posed a problem for me; my ears are a bit tropical again,) but such a nice man.  Pete asked how long he had been driving taxis.  Twenty years, he said.  But he used to work every second day, so he had time to be with his wife and small children.  But now…he works seven days a week.  We asked why and he said that his wife’s family came to visit and never left.  They don’t work, any of them, so he has to support them all.  There used to be a nice little family of four in their small house; now here are TEN of hem.  Some of them share the marital bedroom with our poor driver and his wife.  “I thought they were coming for a short visit,” he said, sadly.  So how long have they been here, leeching off him??  Four YEARS!!!  He started to get a tad hysterical.  “When I want to make love to my wife, we have to be VERY quiet!” he said, laughing just a bit.  Then he guffawed.  “We can only do it sideways!  And we have to stop whenever we hear any of them move!”  By the time he dropped us off at the Tune Hotel all three of us had tears of laughter and sympathy rolling down our cheeks… I do hope this was therapeutic for him…


Thursday, 9 October 2014

10th October - Busuanga Airport on the way to Manila


Friday 10th October

Busuanga airport

We got here…and we got through several baggage searches (no x-ray machines, just a team of enthusiastic people, some of whom had guns.)  Pete has the faulty depth sounder from 2XS in his suitcase; this caused just a bit of consternation, and no doubt will continue to do so on our next three flights.

Friday 10th October

Busuanga Airport

Moment of truth…we had to climb onto the Scale of Justice, after our cases had been weighed.  Mine was 14 kilos, Pete’s 26, so we just made the limit.  I shuddered when it was my turn to step up.  I have a real problem with my weight/body image.  I see myself as quite enormously … well maybe not fat, but  certainly…plump.  I expected the scales to go…off the scale.  But no.  I have put on weight since January but…only one kilo. 

The Crew on 2XS has grown.  We now have living on board:

Dodong aka Bernard
His wife Renalyn
Their glorious baby, Johanna, 8 months old.



And next week Toby and Rosie will climb aboard.  2XS will be very safe and very clean…

Last night I me Jim’s very newest granddaughter, three weeks old, and nobly named Princess Natalia.  Jim has offspring in their late fifties, but he also has a new batch of fertile boys… Princess Natalia’s father will be 18 next month, and her mother, Alisa, is…maybe 16.  And she looks very calm and very competent.



Today is Angela’s birthday.  Angela Wood nee Headlam, Pete’s youngest sister.  I have just lokoed through my photos of Angela, niftily filed away in my magical Faces program on my Macbook Air.  It is hard to choose a photo; she looks so lovely, so cheery, so delightful in each and every one of them.  So I am choosing this one of her looking VERY cold, in Alaska, earlier this year.  (Nicked from her Facebook page…)  We are so looking forward to seeing her – very soon!


9th October - last day in Coron


Thursday 9th October

am

Today is packing day.  Yesterday I went down into my least favourite part of the boat – the forward hatch.  It has sharp metal rungs – impossible to negotiate with bare feet.  And inside it is hot and airless.  I spend as little time as as possible in these horrible places.  But there were two suitcases down there, cosily nested together.  Pete was busy removing the headsail from its mast, so down I went… I couldn’t get my head out at the same time as the suitcases – they were surprisingly fat and unyielding, one inside the other.  So I had to push from below…and the wretched thing got stuck…


Imagine this STUCK with me underneath...sobbing...
I did not behave with dignity and decorum…I shrieked a bit, sobbed a bit, and called for Pete to drop everything and come AT ONCE to pull the cases out.  And when I came out I sat and sobbed and shuddered a bit more.  NOT fun!  But…we have two perfectly good suitcases, which I have squirted with mould remover and now they are ready for action!

Pete, in the meantime, released the headsail and we did a nifty folding thing to it – I think Pete called this layering, or pleating.   (Or another word...FEATHERING, he has now informed me.)




We then folded into a nice square and shoved it…down the hatch!  It won’t be quite as easy to get out as it was to shove in…But that is an issue we will have to face three months hence.




Pete spent all day on deck securing sails, while I cleaned out cupboards and spaces in the two cabins our crew are going to use.  By the end of the day we were…knackered… So we went out to dinner, to the beautiful restaurant where I had fish and chips, and the other end of town.  We were the only customers, apart from a large group in the offshoot restaurant across the street.  Oh and a party of VERY hefty people from Manila, who arrived with their own…pizzas!  We bot wanted to order fish but…No have, sir.  So I had chicken scallopini with ratatouille and Pete had some sort of pork thing and they were both SO delicious we nearly cried.  It was the standard of cooking you would expect in a 5 star restaurant in Australia.  (And yes…the sordid topic of coin…it was VERY cheap.  About $5 each…)

As we walked back, Pete wanted to go and find the source of our nightly music.  It always sounds like a loud and cheery party on the waterfront – where was the music coming from??  Well…it comes from a fairly large hotel, with a restaurant and terrace bar.  Complete empty…apart from a lovely singer, with her synthesizer.  She was later joined by her partner, who sang most beautifully.  We sat through the entire oeuvre of The Carpenters, and then some 80s ballads, and then…back to 2XS.




Pete is totally addicted to our new boxed set…I had bought the first series of Breaking Bad in Thailand, but had avoided ever trying to watch it with him.  It sounded like the sort of program he would LOATHE.

But…it is a brilliant program and Pete wants to watch at least two episodes a night – any more and our power conks out.  (It is very hard to watch anything with the generator roaring away, so two episodes is the limit.)  When we were out at sea with Toby and the Team, I asked him if he had watched it – he comes from Albuquerque.  Well yet – not only had he watched it, but his best friend is one of the regular actors (Hank’s sidekick…)  And better than this – he has the whole set and has lent it to a very ecstatic Pete!




A bit later…

Ahh packing… I was a bit startled to have so much in my suitcase.  It is just a bit over half full…




And then Pete came back from his missions in Coron and I sent him downstairs to start packing his (much bigger…) case.

This is just the beginning.  There is a whole lot of STUFF he also wants to take home.  He has filled both cases to capacity and I am not sure we are going to be under the 20kg limit…




After my nifty packing session I decided to wipe down every single white surface inside 2XS with a bleachy-mould removing mixture.  I have only ever wiped down the surfaces on an ad hoc basis; I was astonished how much whitestuff there was…  But not an unpleasant job, and very satisfying.

Evening

We are now settled in to Seadive restaurant, where we  are going to have dinner with the redoubtable Crew.  (And where I hope the internet is working…it wasn’t working on 2XS.  I kept trying, in between bouts of de-moulding and scrubbing.)


Chilli lobster!


Tuesday, 7 October 2014

7th October - Coron to Banana Island and back


Tuesday 7th October

Stormy sky later in the day - no rain eventuated, more's the pity
am

HOT and very sunny.  Fiercely sunny!  When I am back in Tasmania, if anyone ever hears me complain about being a bit chilly – feel free to box my ears!

pm

We have had a very busy day, out on the water with The Crew – Rosie, Toby (Tobias) and Dodong.  Dodong is very shy but I winkled out from him that he has another name – Bernard.  Rosie told me that in fact Dodong just means… Boy… (I think I will call him Bernard from now on.)

Pete Toby Bernard Rosie
We went quite a long way, to Banana Island Bernard’s suggestion.  He has been driving a boat since he was a little tacker, and we took his advice. It was indeed a beautiful little island, with a very attractive-looking strip of aqua reef, only metres from our mooring.  After lunch, I asked if anyone was going of a swim.  Well...no.  Bernard told us that it costs 200 pesos to swim here – It is very expensive water, Mam. 

CaptainBernard
Co-ordinates
11 degrees 46.261N
120 degrees 7.731E
mooring buoys
small resort, v beautiful – 200 pesos

Banana Island
(Just across the way, on a nearby string of fabulous little islands, was a Four Seasons resort. I imagine the water there would be even more expensive…)


I happen to know that Philippine wages are extremely low.  $4.50 was not prohibitive for (bloated Australian plutocrat) me… I would have forked it out gladly, for a chance to swim in the glorious water.  But it is very probably more than Bernard earns in a day…So I tutted and said Goodness me no, much too expensive…and we went to Coral Gardens where only Toby and I swam, but it didn’t cost anything.


Rosie
We have only just got back, at 5.30, and I am totally knackered.  PATHETIC!!  Our guests were hardly difficult or intrusive, and in fact Toby and Bernard did all of the work, with supervision from Captain Pete.  All I had to do was make a potato salad and cut up some tomatoes and a cold chicken.  But…knackered…


Toby
Wednesday 8th October

(So knackered I didn’t even have the energy to turn my modem on and put this into cyberspace…)